The short answer is probably between 1 and 3 amps for a set of six gauges (not including the lighting circuits).

AutoMeter instruments with Perimeter Incandescent Lighting utilize white light bulbs to spill soft light around the edges of the instrument dial and reflected off of a three dimensional pointer design for night time illumination that’s easy on the eyes. Red and Green bulb covers are included to allow you to customize the illumination color. If you’re looking for brighter light and more color with these instruments, check out our Replacement LED bulbs in the Accessories section.

Wet cell or gel type battery is required for proper operation. We recommend using a standard 12V automotive battery.

This list will help you fully under stand what a "DPSS", "HPOP", or "FSE" means.

In the AutoMeter gauge line, you’ll find three very different meter movements used in the construction of our instruments. These are Short Sweep Electric (SSE), Full Sweep Mechanical (FSM) and Digital Stepper Motor (DSM). Here we’ll touch upon the key differences between them and help to clarify which works best for each type of application and why.

Despite common belief, battery ground is NOT the best place to ground accessories. The battery ground to body/engine/chassis is certainly required in order to complete the circuit which makes up the vehicles ground path, however it is certainly not the best place to install your ground wire for various accessories.

The extension wire is an integral part of the pyrometer calibration. By standard means, it may not be shortened or lengthened without effecting the gauge calibration. However, AutoMeter has developed a thermocouple probe extension module for applications that require a longer thermocouple wire due to an increased distance between the thermocouple and the gauge.

Whether the gauge is new, still sealed in the package, or even if it is already installed, and power is off, the pointer on your pyrometer can point anywhere. This gauge is manufactured with an “air-core” internal meter that uses no physical contact with the pointer. Therefore there is no “spring” to pull the pointer down, or auto zero function when power is turned off.

The AutoMeter pyrometers are calibrated to within + or – 2% accuracy at full scale reading. What this means, is that we purposely make sure that the hotter the probe is, the more accurate the gauge is. Therefore it is not uncommon for the outside temperature to be 70 degrees, and the gauge is showing you something different, such as 32 degrees, or even something a little over 100 degrees. This is not a cause for concern. After all, when it comes to this gauge, we want to make sure that it is giving you proper readings at hotter temperatures, where it matters the most. Generally, the gauge has come into full calibration by 600 degrees.

The most common cause for this condition is when too many things connected to the volt-meter. On the back of many AutoMeter voltmeters, there are three terminals. These are identified with the letters “S”, “I”, and “GND”. Of these three terminals, only two are used. Connect the “GND” terminal to a common chassis ground, and connect the “I” terminal to a key-on power supply. Leave the “S” terminal empty. If you were to connect power to the “S” terminal, the gauge will immediately read at or above 18v. Simply remove your wire from the “S” terminal and the problem is solved.

This FAQ pertains to short sweep, electric gauges, that use a single-terminal sender. The symptom is that the gauge will either immediately peg at full reading, or may gradually read higher and higher until maxed out, and appears to get there rather quickly. An example would be starting your engine cold, and having a reading or 180 degrees in under a minute, then having it continue to rise.

Let’s start with “why” you would ever want to remote mount an oil pressure sender.

This is actually not too uncommon of an inquiry. Most times, just getting the vehicle out and driving it will solve the issue. Here is why. The oil temperature actually does not climb at the same rate as, say the coolant temperature. Depending on the engine, and the build (tolerances) of the engine, along with many other variables, it is possible to not see an oil temp reading at all if you simply run the car in a shop, or idle the car for a long period.

You can use any Auto Meter Full Sweep Electric Fuel Pressure gauge to monitor lift pump (not injector) pressure, though we recommend the 30psi units as a best fit for this application. However, you must also install a #3279 pressure snubber fitting and #3227 stainless hose kit to protect the sending unit as '98 to '02 (and some late '97 or early '03) Dodge Diesels produce a very sharp, very high pressure spike in excess of over 300psi between the lift pump and injector pump.

This is a question/concern that we hear more often these days as many OEM, and some after market gauges perform a full sweep on power up. AutoMeter full sweep (digital stepper motor) gauges will not perform a full sweep. Instead what they are intended to do is a “calibration sweep” which is a little different. Instead of sweeping to full scale and back, the AutoMeter gauge(s) will simply sweep backwards from its last reading to just below the minimum reading, touch the stop pin, then go back up to whatever current reading is.

AutoMeter instruments are not designed to be exact replacements for original gauges, they are intended to improve a stock dash. The custom car or truck builder may be able to mount some instruments directly into the dash, however they will most likely need to modify or build a completely new dashboard.

Sometimes there comes a time when you want to check the accuracy of your temp gauge, or maybe you simply do not believe the temperature that is being displayed. We are going to start off with one of today’s biggest misunderstandings when it comes to checking water temperature….

The short sweep electric fuel gauge manufactured by Auto Meter for the Ford 73-10ohm range is calibrated for the original Ford factory supplied, non-linear, fuel level sender design. If you view the gauge dial itself, you will notice that the halfway point in the gauge is in fact not centered in the field in order for the calibration to match this special sender.

To fully understand why a high performance vehicle tuner would be better off using a wide-band O2 sensor/gauge versus a narrow band setup, we must first understand what each sensor was originally developed to do.

If your fuel level gauge stays still when the car is still, the problem is due to sloshing fuel in the tank. When the vehicle is in motion, fuel is allowed to move back and forth and move, or “slosh” around. Many late model tanks have internal baffling and some fuel cells use a foam insert that help keep fuel from moving around too much.

For the electric water temp gauges, the temp sender should be located either in the intake manifold or the cylinder head; this is not an instance where a tee fitting can be used, as coolant will not circulate past the sender. Please see our radiator and heater hose adapters under the Accessories section as another available option for mounting your gauge's coolant temperature sender.

Electrical temperature and pressure gauges require the use of a sender matched for the type of gauge in use; the stock sender will only work with the stock gauges. AutoMeter gauges are designed to work with the AutoMeter sender that is included with the gauge. Extra senders are available; check out our Accessories section for more information.

When installing one of our mech. temp gauges, you should first be aware of the fact that you will need to drill or cut a 7/8" hole in your firewall to route the capillary tubing. This is must be done because the capillary tubing can not be removed from the back of the gauge or the sealing nut without damaging the line itself. We include a grommet to fill the hole you drill, so there is not a gaping hole in your firewall.

Short answer: A voltmeter, by far.

All AutoMeter fuel level gauges and most OEM fuel level gauges operate on the same principle. They operate the same way as an ohm meter and measure resistance to ground, but only within a calibrated range and direction. Power & ground is supplied to the gauge to power the meter.

First we need to determine the model number of the gauge to know what the calibrated resistance range is of the gauge in question. You may either check our catalog or use the Ask A Question feature to find out what the range of operation of the gauge is.

AutoMeter offers a universal sender under model number 3262. It operates from 240 ohms at empty and 33 ohms at full. It is adjustable from 5” to 24” tank depths. It uses a 5 bolt mounting flange. In most cases, it may be necessary to cut a new hole in the top of the tank to use this sender. It does not replace spin lock or ring type factory sending units.

Run a new, 18g automotive wire from the “S” terminal of the gauge to the sender terminal of the sending unit.

For safety reasons, all MECHANICAL fuel pressure gauges must be mounted outside of the vehicle, unless you use a fuel pressure isolator. In low pressure applications (0-15 PSI) we offer fuel pressure gauges that include the isolator and 4 ft. of braided line between the gauge and the isolator. The isolator keeps any fuel inside the engine compartment behind the firewall and not in the passenger compartment.

So, you have decided to replace or install one of our fuel level gauges, or your current system is simply broken. No problem. However, this can be a tricky job, and it will require some thought and research. Fuel level gauges are designed to work with specific sending units that vary with different automobile manufacturers. AutoMeter offers gauge models for use with the existing senders on most cars.

Any gas engine will naturally produce measurable vacuum any time that it is running. This is the result of the down-sweep of the pistons while the intake valves are open. This is how it draws in the air/fuel mixture, and when the throttle or closed, or only partly open, you will have a higher vacuum reading due to the restriction your throttle blade produces.

Many customers looking to to use the data output require a formula to put into their 3rd party logger or ECU to interpret the output voltage from the gauge. The upper and lower set points of the Wideband Pro gauges are user adjustable and therefor no single formula can easily be applied to every application. Here’s an explanation of how to create the formula depending on your low and high bar graph display (BGD) settings.

Many customers inquire about installing a temperature probe for their mechanical temperature gauge, whether it is a water, oil, or transmission temperature gauge. See the video for detailed instructions on the process.

On occasion, there is a difference in the terminal arrangement on the tachometers and speedometers. You can always tell what terminal belongs to what, by looking at the “key”, or “chart” cast into the back of the unit. These markings represent the terminals. There may not be a terminal present in every port. This is normal.

Over the years with the introduction of new model numbers, and changes in production, we have had various designs in lighting our in dash tachometers and speedometers. Please see below for some pictures on how to access your bulb for replacement.

Due to changes in manufacturing techniques, there are a few models of AutoMeter 3-3/4”, pedestal mount tachometers that do certainly come with the wires and terminals, but are not plugged into anything yet on the rear of the tachometer.

If you are using a factory tachometer, or an aftermarket tachometer that does not have shift light controls, you may still use any of the above mentioned shift lights, but you will now need an RPM Switch, an RPM Activated Module, or Playback Box. Examples of these items are 5312, 5313, and 5314, as well as the recently discontinued 5310. Even if you are running no tachometer, you may still use the RPM activated devises, and any of the above shift lights.

If you have a Mopar Orange or Chrome Box ignition system on your vehicle, rather than connecting the Green signal wire of your tachometer to the negative side of your ignition coil, instead locate the Gray wire running between the Ignition Box and the Distributor. Connect your tach's Green signal wire to this Gray wire for a proper engine RPM signal.

Dual-Range Tachometers from AutoMeter feature a compressed lower RPM scale and an expanded upper scale for enhanced clarity and extreme resolution where it counts! These tachometers are ideal for high-revving motors that spend most of their life in the upper rev band. Such high performance application include drag & road racing, circle track, and drift vehicles.

We are getting more and more requests for tach signal wires and connection points on all kinds of new vehicles, and virtually every new vehicle has at least a DIS (distributorless ignition systems, or coil pack as it is more commonly referred to). The days of the "old distributor and coil" are gone, friends.

Check the power to the White (illumination) wire. This is your power input to the light and the amount of power will vary depending on how and where you have it hooked up. The lower the power, the dimmer the light and the higher the power, the brighter the light. A common range is from 6 to 14 volts.

Your AutoMeter tachometer should go to Zero when powered on with the engine off.

The causes of this type of problem can vary. We recommend that you check the following before contacting our Tech Department:

This situation can be caused by a short in the external shift light wiring. Check your wiring for exposed wires or connections, and repair as necessary.

We get a lot of questions about this. Here is the reason, along with some specifics for each product. Most of the electric instruments that we offer use what is called an air core meter. In layman's terms, this means there is no physical part to hold the pointer where it sits, or to force it back to zero when power is removed.

In most cases, yes, your tachometer can be converted to magneto or Super Magneto or vice-versa. Our magneto signal converter however, (model 9118) will allow you to use most standard/electronic ignition tachometers on most external coil magnetos.

Is your tach pointer jumpy only at idle? This may be due to a 4 cylinder 1 or 2 pulse calibration setting. A little jumpiness at idle is considered normal in this case due to the low frequency signal generated by this ignition signal type at idle. A fluctuation of this type at low engine speeds is a trade off for an extremely quick and smooth reaction at higher engine RPM (where it really counts!) on these types of ignitions.

Autogage series tachometers exhibit this behavior when the signal wire (Green) is connected to an improper source, or when it does not recognize the tachometer signal it has been connected to. Be sure to check out our Installation Information section to verify that you are connected to the proper location.

Check connections related to the signal wire (Green wire in most cases). Is the Green wire connected to the proper location (i.e. the negative side of the coil, or tachometer output from an after market ignition)?

If your tachometer is equipped with a externally mounted shift light, make sure that the shift light cord is fully plugged in. Thet are usually shipped unplugged when new.

We offer a large variety of playback tachs to cover all performance data acquisition needs from enthusiast to the professional. Check out the break down below to determine which model is right for you. See bottom for feature definitions.

In some cases with newer vehicles such as Dodge and Ford V-10's, tachometers will have to be specially calibrated at an additional charge. Contact our tech support department for more details.

Radio frequency interference (RF Interference) produces a false triggering effect on crank trigger and electronic distributor ignitions. Because your AutoMeter electronic tachometer counts the number of times you ignition fires in a crankshaft revolution, additional random, false triggering causes erratic and inaccurate tach movement.

The short answer is no. The power, signal, and sealing requirements are not met for these applications. Click to find out why.

This is a very common inquiry after folks like yourself install a late model LS engine into an earlier vehicle. Your computer wire harness has a tachometer signal wire, so why won’t it work? After all, the wire harness manufacturer put it there, and maybe even labeled it as tachometer signal. What’s the problem?

On occasion, there is a difference in the terminal arrangement on the tachometers and speedometers. You can always tell what terminal belongs to what, by looking at the “key”, or “chart” cast into the back of the unit. These markings represent the terminals. There may not be a terminal present in every port. This is normal.

Over the years with the introduction of new model numbers, and changes in production, we have had various designs in lighting our in dash tachometers and speedometers. Please see below for some pictures on how to access your bulb for replacement.

There is no need to use two separate speed senders. You may share one speed sender (sensor) between the cruise and the speedometer.

If the speedometer registers speed with the engine running while the car is sitting still, you will first need to make sure that you have successfully completed the calibration procedure. If not, do so and that may solve the problem.

One of the greatest features of the electric speedos is that they are fully programmable, which means you can recalibrate it rather easily if you happen to change your rear-end gear or tire sizes. If you have ever had to change the gear in the transmission to adapt for either of these changes, you will appreciate the ease of the calibration with this speedo.

Check the output from the speed sensor to see if the speedometer is getting a signal.

This is most commonly caused by the speedometer not receiving a speed sensor signal during calibration. Check to make sure you have a wire going from the “SIG” terminal of the speedometer to the signal output of the vehicle speed sensor. Good soldered connections for this also help.

With the power off, push and hold the calibration button (trip/reset button when equipped). While holding the button, start the vehicle and continue to hold the button until the pointer sweeps to full scale and stays at full scale. You may now release the button.

This answer depends largely on what transmission and vehicle you have. For some the answer is easy, for others it is not impossible, but just not as easy. Please read on.

We first suggest contacting Speedometer Service out of Milwaukee, WI. They can assist you with adapters, cable gears, and new cables for virtually every application. The phone number to reach them at is: (414) 463-6660.

The square drive key for the AutoMeter 5291 speed sender may become disengaged from the speedometer gear. There is an easy solution to solve this. You can off-center the bushing on the drive key.

Where the antenna be placed, long signal acquisition time, and more.

There are many options on the market when it comes to vehicle speed sensors. This guide will help you choose the best speed sensor for your application and budget. Today’s vehicles mainly use either inductive and hall effect RPM sensors to measure the speed (RPM) of the vehicle. The RPM sensors are most commonly inductive Variable Reluctance or Hall Effect type. While the basic operation of these sensors is very similar, to measure rotational speed, there are some very clear differences in the signal generated by these sensors.

Red = key on power supply

Red = key on power supply

Brown, Green, & Red = used for communication between the gauge and its matching black interface box.

Red & Red w/ Green stripe = wired in-line on ignition coil power supply that powers all coils. Installation varies widely from vehicle to vehicle. See Installation Information or Ask A Question sections for further information.

Red = key on power supply

Red = key on power supply

Red = key on power supply

Yellow = key on power supply.

Yes the do count as 2 of the 9 channels. If you are using both of these sensors you will have 7 user definable channels

Yes we offer a 10 & 20 channel expansion module.

Yes the pulse count is user definable and set through the advance tab in Designer.

As long as the sensors are 0-5 volt they can be used with the new system.

The recording time depends of how many channels you are monitoring and the sample rate set for each channel. The more channels and higher sample rate the less record time. Recording 9 channels at a 100 samples per second will leave you with 14 minutes of record time.

The unit will continue to record as long as the is memory left. There is no set number of runs that can be recorded, if you have 14 minutes worth of record time and each recording last 30 seconds you can record 28 runs. The unit will stop recording when the memory is full and will not record data until the memory is cleared.

Windows XP service pack 3, Vista, 7 & 8.

The unit downloads through a USB port on the PC.

AutoMeter feels that both methods are extremely accurate if using our equipment. The variable load carbon pile tester, in the hands of a qualified technician has been a proven standard for many years. AutoMeter's Digital Pulse Load Technology incorporates that proven standard and includes a significant load that subscribes to BCI (Battery Council Internationals) protocols for testing. Testers utilizing this advanced technology are very fast and easy to use with even partially discharged batteries without any compromise accuracy.

In a nutshell, it's how we arrive at the fastest, easiest and most accurate testing available for batteries, starting and charging systems. This patented technology is exclusively found in AutoMeter's testers. Digital Pulse Load (DPL) Technology is a system utilized in our hand held and advanced bench top units, developed using the Battery Council International (BCI) endorsed variable load and hydrometer testing protocols, to digitally monitor voltage drop and recovery, or ripple. The ripple is amplified by the tester and is utilized as the diagnostic tool. The smaller the ripple detected, the higher the CCA capability of the battery. Following the pulse load, a full load is applied to the battery. A sophisticated algorithm then converts the input information of battery rating and temperature with the ripple response to determine battery performance. Additionally Advanced DPL protocol utilizes a significant load, which enhances the accuracy and simplifies our alternator testing process. Unlike other testing systems, AutoMeter's Advanced DPL Technology does not require the technician to apply an inconsistent load (i.e. turning the headlights or fan motor on and off) while testing the alternator, because it uses a known, consistent load.

Even the best variable load carbon pile testers need calibration on a regular basis. AutoMeter recommends that for optimum operation, carbon pile testers that receive regular usage are calibrated on an annual bases. Analog meters are more susceptible to falling out of specification than digital ones. You can easily verify your calibration by making a comparison with the readings from a known good digital multimeter. Contact AutoMeter at 866-883-8378 for information regarding factory calibration and repair.

Voltage drop testing is extremely important. This is done by measuring voltage, which is essentially electrical pressure, at the battery and at the system component being tested (such as the alternator or starter) while under a load. The difference between the two readings is the amount of voltage drop. Larger differences can indicate problems associated with the cables and connections, and not necessarily the system components themselves. Voltage Drop testing can be accomplished with our carbon pile testers, but can now be performed automatically by using AutoMeter's patented automated voltage drop program found in our BCT-200J, BVA-350, and BVA-2100 testers.

Ripple is the terminology associated with AC voltage produced by the alternator. Alternators produce AC voltage, then rectify to DC voltage for the operation of vehicle electrics. It is possible for an alternator to appear to operate correctly and still have diodes that aren't up to the task of rectifying all that AC to DC voltage. Excessive AC voltage that is not rectified can cause erratic operation of the vehicles' electrical components and even serious damage to the electrical system. For this reason, testing for ripple is very important and is included in AutoMeter test equipment.

AutoMeter's intelligent handheld testers, utilizing our patented Digital Pulse Load technology can analyze most vehicles within 82 seconds. There simply isn't a faster, easier or more accurate comprehensive test on the market at any price.

Yes! AutoMeter's engineers have worked extensively with all of the major battery manufacturers to produce accurate testing procedures for modern, high tech batteries. Our testers are designed to strictly adhere to the standards these manufacturers set in place to gauge the health of their products.

Many shops completely recoup the cost of their tester in less than 15 days. If a fleet saves the needless purchase of one alternator or one starter, the tester has already paid for itself. Testimonials indicate a typical fleet that works on 1,000 trucks a year could save $31,000 annually. For an automotive shop, this can vary depending on the charge for diagnosis and/or preventative maintenance procedures. Many shops use our testers on every car because of the simplicity and speed of the test. You can't check the air pressure in all four of a vehicle's tires in the amount of time it takes to completely analyze the battery, starting and charging system using an AutoMeter tester.

Most of AutoMeter's testers will work perfectly with 24 volt electrical systems that use multiple 12 volt batteries. This does not extend to 24 volt batteries, which unfortunately we do not offer test equipment for at this time.

Check the internal battery to make sure it is either charge (rechargable types) or replace the internal 9 volt battery.

A typical transbrake solenoid draws 1.4 ohms resistance. 12 volts divided by 1.4 ohms = 8.57 amps! If on a 16v system, 16 volts divided by the same 1.4 ohms = 11.4 amps! You should up your wire sizes and fuse sizes when using 16 volt batteries.

One of the most effective products you can use to improve the consistency of your car is an automated shifter. Shifts are made at exactly the same point in every run, which eliminates one of the major variables effecting the E.T. of the car. While automated shifting improves all cars, two types of cars respond particularly well: heavy cars with low/medium power and light cars with high power.

Electric solenoid shifters are popular because they are simple and 12 volts are always available. Mounted behind your existing transmission shifter, they are automatically "cocked" when you pull the car into gear. At a pre-determined rpm, a spring forces a ram to hit the shift lever and shift the car. These units draw very little power and are the utmost in reliability. Being simple, their only drawback is that they tend to be slightly longer and bulkier than CO2 shifters. Many racers prefer CO2 operated shifters because they tend to be smaller and more compact. Oftentimes, a CO2 throttle stop is already being used, so it is easy to tie in a shifter.

Please click HERE to download the form to send your product in for service/repair.